Winter
2018 in Review: Our Rights and Our Wrongs
It's
seed catalog time – I've got two already. Seed Savers Exchange arrived
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Yes, I know they are from across the continent, but you gotta give them some love - you'll find stuff here, you'll find nowhere else! |
A
recap of what has been grown is a great place to start to figure out
what you'll grow this year! From my notes, this is what a past
winter season looked like in the garden.
Artichoke:
We had a great harvest last year of artichokes – mostly Green
Globe Improved. They all produced big beautiful chokes with abandon.
We had respectable harvest from Violetto which I love, but it wasn't
nearly as productive, the chokes are smaller and not nearly as meaty.
We are working with a plant breeder to work out some bugs in his
purple artichokes, which he has named Winnetka Purple, but so far
we've seen good sized green chokes or little sized purple
chokes. More work.
Beets:
Burpee's Golden and Chioggia - both are dynamite and steady
producers year in and year out and both are readily available all
over. These are two old standby varieties that form the bulk of my
beet growing – Burpee's Golden has a lower than usual rate of
germination but it's well worth it – besides fabulous pickles, they
don't stain your hands or clothing!
Broccoli:
Nutribud is an OP (Open Pollinated, vs. 'Hybrid') of respectable
performance; earliness is right up there with the hybrids and the
size, though smaller, is comparable. As the name suggests, it is
reported to have a higher percentage of glutamine. DeCicco is a
smaller, faster and more home garden friendly than some of the older
varieties. All the other tight headed broccoli are hybrids. There
are loose headed broccoli like Romanesco and Calabrese, but they take
a lot more time. With those two varieties I recommend
(Nutribud and DeCicco), you can harvest the main head and have more
than a month of the sideshoots which can be more worthwhile than the
main head.
Brussels
sprouts: Between cabbage and broccoli, I get enough of this
family to skip Brussels sprouts. OP Brussels sprouts include Long
Island Improved which is the standard. The problem I have is that
aphids get into each and every sprout and they are labor intensive to
clean before eating – if you get a decent crop, grill them! I love
them like that.
Cabbage:
A good year for cabbage for us. Danish Ball Head, one of my
favorite OP heirlooms performed good after we actually got some
seedlings started. Winningstadt is a pointy head cabbage that
yielded 10 pound heads that were delicious. Both were huge solid
heads and we ate and ate and finally learned how to ferment cabbage
to be able to eat it the rest of the year. And then I was sick of
cabbage.
Carrots:
How wonderful, if you
decide to plant some of the different color carrots, you'll be able
to grow open pollinated seeds! Because carrots didn't become
uniformly orange until the last 70 years or so (because of marketing
demand), the different colored carrots are all OP. In the orange
department you'll find Nantes and Red Cored Chantenay as your big
producers. In containers, try Paris Market and other small,
'one-bite' carrots.
Cauliflower:
Mark Twain is supposed to have said that 'cauliflower was
cabbage that had gone to college' and who can afford the tuition
these days, so I'll stick to cabbage. Cabbage is easier to preserve
and broccoli will give successive cuttings from one plant.
Cauliflower is more work and less results. But, if you must, Early
Snowball is the best OP cauliflower available and it is
'self-blanching,' which means its own leaves cover the white curds
keeping them from the sun. If the curds are exposed to the sun, they
will turn greenish, a detracting trait according to the Regents.
There are also purple and a 'cheddar' color of cauliflower that are
heirloom varieties.
Celeriac:
First year with this and I like it. I don't grow celery because it's
a hard plant to grow and home grown celery has always tasted bitter
to me. Celeriac, on the other hand, was easy to grow and produced
well. You can't smear a hunk with cream cheese or peanut butter and
have the same delightful appetizer, but it does a marvelous dance in
soups. Large Prague was our selection and I've not had experience
with anything else.
Chard:
(I'm dispensing with the 'Swiss' part, feel free to join me, after
all, is it really Swiss?) We had seed from Seed Savers
Exchange of Five Color Silverbeet, (silverbeet is Australian for
chard, God only knows why) and seed of Pinetree's Orange Fantasia.
Both were incredibly productive – although I've never known chard
to be unproductive, so I'm not sure that's saying a lot. Someone gave
us a few plants of Fordhook Giant, large leaves with a tremendous
white rib down the center, and that one has spectacular production.
While the colorful chards are show stoppers and sometimes we skip on
Fordhook Giant, but those huge, beautiful, dark-green leaves are
loaded with nutrition and flavor.
Cilantro:
Let it go to seed and you'll
have cilantro returning to your garden annually! I wish we could
have it when tomatoes are ripe, then I'd grow a bundle of it, but no.
It grows in our winter here. Plant any old cilantro – I have
noticed no difference between Slo-Bolt and normal – one good blast
of a hot Santa Ana wind it all of them bolt!
Collards:
I'm
not a huge fan and I've only had experience growing the old standard
Vates. Collards, like some other winter crops like broccoli, are
long term producers and that is a wonderful trait. Collards, a major
part of the southern cuisine, became popular as one of the few crops
that could remediate salty soil – like soil that had been inundated
with ocean water from storms. As the slaves of the South worked with
collards, they made them into stars of their now famous cuisine!
Fava
beans: Windsor is my favorite and we get pounds of beans from
each plant. I'm growing fewer peas preferring to grow more favas,
garbanzos and lentils. Favas, of all of them, are the most productive
– once you find recipes for them and are used to using them, they
are really prolific! There are some less known favas that are quite
beautiful.
Garlic:
I love Spanish Roja – one of the hardnecks that are supposed to not
like warm climates, but I have great luck with them. Last year, the
crows got to them. They don't eat the garlic, but they pull them out
of the ground. After three or four go rounds of this (they pull, I
replant, repeat), the cloves were hopelessly intermixed so which one
was the better producer is anyone's guess. But even without crows,
you will find yourself buying fresh seed garlic every year –
especially when you grow hard neck garlic which won't keep from one
harvest to the next planting.
Kale:
Redbor has worked well for me. I had some plants of Dwarf Blue kale,
but when I grew it, I felt like that was a very stupid idea – same
footprint for half the the food. What WAS I thinking? Lacinato, or
Dinosaur Kale, gets a lot of press - and the cooks seem to love it
the best. From my northern friends I have heard that kale needs a
frost to really bring out its flavor – in some years, we might get
to find if that's true. I've had enough kale to last me the rest of
my natural life.
Leeks:
King Richard is my usual dependable producer but last year was a
really so-so harvest. I think I ignored them too much. American Flag
is another popular variety.
Lettuce:
I'm one of those who can't get through the lettuce section of a seed
catalog without ordering four or five more packets! I could supply a
large army with lettuce if I were given the land to do it. Marvel of
the Four Seasons (Merveille des Quatre Saisons), Drunken Woman
Frizzy-head (I kid you not!), Red Winter, Deer Tongue, Buttercrunch,
and on and on and on. All delicious and all OP! Please note that
the butter heads for which you pay so dearly in the store, are not
hard to grow at all (their priciness is in the shipping) and they are
actually more heat resistant than most other lettuces.
Onions:
I usually buy plants from a local organic farm supply, but they sold
out so I had to learn how to grow them from seed. Worked out fine,
except that it takes a very long time. I like to grow
Italian Red Torpedo – a delicious onion that is absolutely stellar
on the grill. The seed I found was called 'Red Long of Tropea,' and
they looked and tasted exactly like Red Torpedo, explains, to me at
least, why it's called 'torpedo' when it really doesn't look any more
like a torpedo than a zeppelin. Onions, unlike almost every other
veggie we grow is 'day sensitive.' Most onions offered in the States
will not bulb in LA because they are 'long day' plants and we need to
grow 'short day' varieties. Folks from the rest of the US are not
able to comprehend our experiences and the catalogs rarely indicate
short or long day. Onions grown in most of Italy and Texas are
usually short-day onions.
Parsnips:
Coming back in popularity, parsnips were overlooked for decades. The
white roots have the earthiness of beets with the crunch of carrots
and are a sweet treat from the earth. I've only grown Hollow Crown,
but I hear a lot of good words on Harris Model. Their seeds, like
carrots do not last long even under really good conditions, so buy
fresh annually on both.
Peas:
I remember as a child getting fresh baby peas and potatoes from the
garden for one of the finest meals we ever had. Nowadays, there are
more pea varieties than you can shake a spoon at! For snap peas,
Sugar Daddy, Sugar Snap are two reliable performers and for shelling,
Little Marvel and Wando – I grow fewer peas than I used to, mainly
because I like to plant other winter crops in the same space. Peas
get ripe and in nano-seconds go to over ripe. Pick them thoroughly
and often.
Potatoes:
The world has changed a lot in
the past few decades as regards the white potato. In the first place,
it is no longer necessarily white. Now days, there are red, blue,
yellow and other colors of potatoes and there are million different
ways to cook them. I think that's going to be my 2018 resolution:
I'm going to learn more about these amazing potatoes and how to eat
them. Growing potatoes is about the easiest thing in the world to
do, and having a good chunk Irish in me, I have that down pat!
I have already grown the yellow ones – the Yukon Golds and found
them delicious as well as easy. The biggest hangup with potatoes is
getting them to sprout on your timeline. Most of those sold for food
have been treated to NOT sprout, but even if they have not been
treated, potatoes are headstrong about starting. They'll not begin to
sprout until they have rested the amount of time they want to. Most
seed houses will have taken care of that for you, but every so often,
when you get nothing, it's because their clock has not been reset.
Radishes:
I often forget to mention radishes – they are not one of my
favorites (they really seem like a waste of space), but if you gotta
have them, you gotta have them. I'm told they are a good source of
protein. French Breakfast is one the standards and nowadays you can
get Watermelon (outside white, inside red) Sparkler (little red ones)
and others that are delightfully colored.
Shallots:
Wow! I had never grown shallots before, but I have found they are
easier to grow than onions and more productive! I planted seed from
Pinetree Garden Seeeds (superseeds.com) and I was impressed, I'm back
for more! Olympus and Bonilla were both good performers. And if you
lack the patience or missed ordering the seeds, get some seed stock
shallots from a reputable seed house – you can find a bag of them
in some nursery stores.
Turnips:
I used to ignore all other
turnips besides Purple Top White Globe which I grew up with
and is the only one sold by Seed Savers Exchange. Amber Globe and
Scarlet Ohno turnips need to be trialed – and there is still time
this winter!
We had
some good harvests this last year and this year we are looking for
way more – we have Spanish Roja garlic in the ground along with
Yellow Dutch Shallots up in the garden, little pokey green things
that are very cute! We have just seeded more beets than I have grown
since 2008 (when I led a high school class making pickled beets!).
These plants, in the garden are almost all from seed. Most of
these, can still be planted on the coast where I am - so I need to get out there and do some more planting!
Start
These In Containers
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Start
These In The Ground
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Move
to the Ground from Containers
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I
would not start anything in containers – but direct sow
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Beets
Fava
beans
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Cabbage
family members
Fava
beans
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Garbanzos
and lentils
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Garlic
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Lettuce
and Other greens
Turnips
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Since
last month's list, I've removed carrots, parsnips and other long
season crops. On the coast, we might get crops in from them, but it
gets riskier as the warmer days approach. Remember, the 75 day fava
bean, in a cold season will take 90 days or more – you might have
time to get a picking or two, but the harvest you could have
had will be lost by your lateness.
SEED
HOUSE SUGGESTIONS
BAKER
CREEK HEIRLOOM SEEDS;
www.rareseeds.com 2278 Baker
Creek Road Mansfield, MO 65704; 417.924.8917 What
a catalog! Beautiful pictures of the produce – vegetable porn for
sure. Anyone who works this hard in putting out a beautiful seed
catalog is working with a great deal of love. Drooling is hardly
optional here. They have a really comprehensive selection as well.
BOTANICAL
INTERESTS; www.botanicalinterests.com
660
Compton Street, Broomfield, CO 80020;
720.880.7293.
I 'have been dealing with these folks for only a couple of years - I
have seen their seeds on seed racks here and there, but I really got
to know them for the quantity of seeds they donate to Venice High
School and other educational programs. Good seed. Clean.
Good variety and a good price. Great packaging!
BOUNTIFUL GARDENS; www.bountifulgardens.org 18001 Shafer Ranch Road; Willits, CA 95490; 707.459.6410 Organic seed; open-pollinated. A part of the work done by John Jeavons, a proud and active member of the population of organic and open-pollinated gardeners.
BOUNTIFUL GARDENS; www.bountifulgardens.org 18001 Shafer Ranch Road; Willits, CA 95490; 707.459.6410 Organic seed; open-pollinated. A part of the work done by John Jeavons, a proud and active member of the population of organic and open-pollinated gardeners.
PEACEFUL VALLEY FARM SUPPLY; www.groworganic.com PO Box 2209; Grass Valley, CA 95945; 916.272.4769 I have purchased many seeds (and a lot of other things!) from Peaceful Valley – I love their catalog. They have an excellent selection of cover crop seeds as well as a lot of organic gardening supplies and tools. I have used their catalog to teach organic gardening because they clearly explain their products and how to use them.
PINETREE GARDEN SEEDS; www.superseeds.com PO Box 300, Rt. 100; New Gloucester, ME 04260; 207.926.3400 Probably the best for a home gardener – small packets of very current seed, a very good value. The smaller packets mean a smaller price so a person can order a lot more varieties and experiment. I have been a customer for many years.
SEED SAVERS EXCHANGE; www.seedsavers.org Rt. 3 Box 239; Decorah, Iowa 52101; 563.382.5990 Membership fees $50. Free brochure. Organic, and ALL open-pollinated. There are two ways to save seeds: one is to collect them all and keep them in a huge building that protects them from everything up to (and including) nuclear holocaust. The other way is to grow 'em. You can find the chance to grow them here. I have been a member for about 10 years and believe in their work.
SOUTHERN EXPOSURE SEED EXCHANGE; www.southernexposure.com P.O. Box 460, Mineral, VA 23117, 540.894.9480 (Fax: 540.894.9481) A commercial venture that is somewhat similar to Seed Savers Exchange, but really isn't an exchange. They do carry seed saving supplies - nice to have if you are going to save seed. And they have varieties that I've found nowhere else.
BALSAMIC-GLAZED
BEETS
3½
pounds beets (4 pounds with green attached, reserving greens for
another use), scrubbed and trimmed, leaving about 1 inch of stems
attached
3
tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2
tablespoons pure maple syrup or honey
1
tablespoon olive oil
1 ½
teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
Speaking
of beets! In a large saucepan cover beets with salted water by 1
inch. Simmer beets, covered, 35 to 45 minutes, or until tender, and
drain in a colander. Cool beets until they can be handled and slip
off skins and stems. Cut beets lengthwise into wedges.
Beets
may be prepared up to this point 2 days ahead and chilled, covered.
Bring beets to room temperature before proceeding.
In a
large skillet stir together vinegar, syrup or honey, and oil and add
beets. Cook beet mixture with salt and pepper to taste over moderate
heat, stirring, until heated through and coated well. Sprinkle about
half of thyme over beets and toss gently. Serve beets sprinkled with
remaining thyme.
david
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